Report of His Excellency Governor Barbour to the Council of State May 12, 1812

In pursuance of the wish of the Council of State, expressed in their advice of — ultimo (which entirely corresponded with my own), suggesting the propriety of my visiting in person particular portions of the Eastern Frontier of the State for the purpose of collecting such information as would aid the Executive in making arrangements for a co-operation with the General Government with a view to the defence and protection of the State against invasion, I left this place on the 21st of April, and pursued what is generally styled the riverside road. My object in doing so was that from its contiguity to the River it is presumable in the event of invasion that our Enemy would avail themselves of this road were they disposed to attempt a stroke at the Capital.
The most prominent places on this road are Tollman's Tavern, six miles from this place; Jackson Eraser's, eight miles; New Market, twelve miles; Cross Roads, 14 miles; Four mile creek, 17 miles; Turkey Island creek, about 19 miles; Shirley Hundred, twenty-two miles; West- over, twenty-nine miles.
The Country through which this road runs is intersected with numberless ravines, deep and difficult of passage, and commanded by elevated hills, presenting most excellent positions for military operations. The face of the Country, generally speaking, immediately contiguous to the road, is covered with forests in their original state, or such as have grown up since industry has declined and the country has been abandoned.
It follows that the approach of the Enemy could be only by the high way. The only points at which an invading enemy would probably debark on the north side of the river, are at the confluence of Four mile creek, Woodson's Ferry, Westover, or Sandy Point. At the former the Enemy lay during the Revolutionary war; from the landing runs a road intersecting the river side road at New Market, distant from this place to the river, three miles. This road continues to the Mage road, distant eight miles, but so small as to be impracticable for the operations of an army, and along which it is next to impossible for them to proceed. Upon this view of the subject a concentration of our defensive means might take place without fear of being circumvented by the enemy.
At Woodson's Ferry, however, a road leads so as to intersect the main river side road at about two miles distant from the river, and continuing till it intersects the stage road, but lower down than the cross road above alluded to. This road is practicable from its appearance at the cross roads, and 1 believe is so to its junction with the Stage road; its character, however, I could not learn from any person whom I had an opportunity of seeing. I can not believe that an enemy will ascend as high as either of these points, and I was therefore less solicitous about possessing very particular information on the subject. The reason of the opinion here expressed is that the shallowness of the water prevents the approach of any but small vessels. The soundings of the river as collected from the most respectable sources accessible to me, will be dctaili.il entire, so as to possess the council at a glance of the depth of water from Newport News (where the James River is lost in the roads,) to Harrison's bar, several miles below the point, a description of which I have attempted.
This objection will also apply to a debarkation at Westover in almost the same degree; in addition to which the progress of an invading Enemy could be easily arrested by a position to be taken on Turkey Island Creek. A small force relying upon this creek as a protection to its right, and a lofty eminence for the left, would confine the Enemy to the road, which may be rendered inaccessible by temporary redoubts and abbatis, and as far as my very limited experience enables me to judge, would present a most desirable point. Westover is rendered remarkable from its being selected during the last war by the Renegade Arnold for the debarkation of his troops when upon his predatory expedition to the metropolis. Should a landing be effected at Sandy Point, which is about forty miles below this place, the Enemy would be con strained to take the river-side road in its approach to this place, and of consequence be subject to all the impediments as above detailed, or would be compelled to take a circuitous route to make their way to the Stage road through a country presenting nearly the same outlines of character as the one already described.
There is no manner of Marine defence on James River, unless it be fort Powhatan, formerly Hoods. This is literally nothing but a scare crow. It had on the 22nd of April, when I visited it, 14 men and a Lieutenant, without a piece of ordnance, or any of the munitions of war. Its position is by land about 33 miles from this place, on the south side of James River, in the County of Prince George. The Fort stands on a bluff sixty feet high, covering 1/2 an acre of land protecting a water Battery (large enough for 12 Guns) in the form of a crescent. The position, naturally, is extremely strong. There is a small creek or estuary above and below the fort, a deep ravine entirely surrounding the bluff, except a small tongue of land not above sixty or seventy yards in width; the summit of the bill may be in extent an acre and a half. Unfortunately, the fort covering only one-third of this, a large space is left upon which an enemy might obtain a lodgment and annoy the garrison. If it had been enlarged so as to embrace the whole summit, it would have given it an entire command of the passage of the ravine and have rendered it formidable. The River at this place is only 500 yards wide, and from a large swamp extending from the opposite shore and forming a consider able bar for some distance in the river, vessels are compelled to approach within a stone's throw of the fort and Battery, and in its approach would be exposed to their united tire, without the possibility of retaliation. The Crescent form of the Battery enables it to attack as the ship approaches, passes, and departs. One defect, however, exists in the arrangement of this fort, and, indeed, all which I have seen, viz., that their founders never seemed to have permitted themselves to believe that they were to he attacked by land, and hence no adequate means of defence have been adopted for the repulsion of such an attack.
After visiting the fort, I recrossed James River to Westover, and reached on the evening of the 22d the residence of Judge Tyler, distant from Westover 9 miles. From Judge Tyler's I proceeded on the morning of the 23d to Chickahominy, 13 miles. This river at this place may be from 4 to 800 yards in width, and shallow and unfit for purposes of navigation, and by consequence affording no communication to a hostile Meet. From thence to James Town, 16 miles. This place rendered illustrious in the annals of America as being the first spot inhabited by our ancestors in the new world, and long the Metropolis of Virginia, exhibits nothing of its former grandeur to satisfy the eye of the curious Traveller, except one or two private houses, its arsenal in a ruinous condition, the steeple of the church, and sepulchral monuments erected by a pious posterity to the memory of their worthy ancestors. I marked the traces (faint, indeed, and only discovered by being pointed out) of the first fort said to be erected by Capt. Smith.
The Island of James Town is situated directly on James River, some what upwards of sixty miles below this place, washed on the South by the River and surrounded by a small estuary of the River. It is three miles in length, containing about 2,000 Acres of land, and is separated from the mainland by a stream 200 yards wide in its narrowest part, and in low tide capable of being forded directly at its junction with the river. Tradition states that the Island was once a peninsula, and that by a small canal being cut for the passage of a Fisherman's canoe the tide has extended this small beginning to the width above mentioned. This can readily be believed when it is further stated that the River has advanced upon the Island 100 yards. There was a small fort upon this Island during the revolutionary war, the traces of which are still visible. The channel of the river at this place is described to be so near the shore,
say 250 yards, that were a fort erected here it would be impossible for a vessel to escape its influence, altho' the river is from two to three miles in width, yet the navigation is impracticable except in the channel, the proximity of which to the shore as above stated would give a fort established there an imposing attitude. Its insular situation would in some degree protect it from all attack by land. On the 24th I left James Town, and passing through Williamsburg reached York; I had an opportunity of viewing the ground which was so often travelled by the contending armies of the revolution.
Independent of the interest which this reflection produces, there is nothing to excite attention except indeed a camp long occupied by the Marquis LaFayette. This was at a mill about two miles below Williamsburg, and from its position must have been happily selected. Notwith standing the smallness of his force, and his contiguity to York he kept the noble Earl in check, and it served as a rallying point to the American Army, which finally invested York.
The fortifications at this latter place have yielded in a great degree to the changing hand of time. There is still, however, enough left to discover the principle fortifications erected by the British immediately around the Town. The outer works arc scarcely visible. A redoubt immediately contiguous to the Secretary Nelson's house is quite apparent, and is in the angle of the Town parallel. York is situated upon an elevated bluff, and its inhabitants boast much of their harbor.
This latter circumstance had much influence upon Cornwallis in select ing it as a port from which their projects of invasion were to be carried on. This scheme, however, depended entirely upon his master's retaining a superiority at sea, in which being disappointed by the arrival of the Compte De Grasse with his overwhelming squadron.
This position being no longer tenable, submitted to the combined forces and consummated the success of the Revolution. From this place I proceeded to Hampton, distant 24 miles. There is nothing interesting in a military point of view through this country, except that it is a narrow tongue of land varying in its width from 5 to 10 miles, produced by the rivers James, York, and the Bay. A superiority at sea would enable an invading enemy to run up either of the above Rivers, and throwing themselves in the rear of any force stationed upon any part of the Country from Williamsburg to Hampton, be enabled thereby to cut off their retreat. In a work, with the perusal of which I was favored by the politeness of the commandant at the port of Norfolk, entitled Carleton's campaigns, I observed that it was a favorite plan with Col. Tarleton to have thrown a force by the way of Queen's Creek into the rear of Fayette, and thereby to have captured him. The Good Genius of America prevented the effort, as the result of such a movement would have been most disastrous.
At Hampton I had an opportunity of reviewing a Rifle company and also some Artillerists. These companies are under the direction of Capt'ns Pryor and several men worthy of the trust reposed in them, and from the state of the arms of which they have the management, deserve well of their Country. The Rifles were in excellent order, and shoot with great exactness, the men being from practice expert shots. The cannon was served with dexterity, and several experiments proved that the Captain was a skilful artillerist. Being solicited to furnish them with the munitions of war, T advised Col. Sharp to procure them 200 lbs. of powder, promising to send them cannon ball and some lead. The propriety of this step, it is believed, will be approved by the Council when it is recollected that Hampton lies contiguous to the roads, is a convenient place for furnishing the British Navy with supplies, and with out such preparation would be exposed to every insult that a *pucaroon might think proper to offer.

*This word should be "picaron," and is of Spanish origin, signifying a rogue. — Ed.

From Hampton I passed to Norfolk, arriving there on the night of the 25th. On the 26th I was visited by almost every person of character particularly the military, all conditions being pleased with the attention shown them by the Executive. By request I reviewed the two volunteer companies with whose discipline and appearance I was highly gratified.
By, request of the Com'r of port, on the next day I visited the Forts Nelson and Norfolk. Fort Nelson stands on a piece of land running into the harbour, and lies between the west and southern branch of Elizabeth River; is about 1/2 a mile from Norfolk, which is situated on the southern bank of the southern branch. Fort Norfolk is on the same side with Norfolk and mile below it.
The state of the Forts was greatly beyond my expectation, and as a marine defence must be most respectable. They arc at this time under the command of Colonel Freeman, an old Revolutionary officer, who seems to have been very attentive to the duties of his station. I requested of him a return of the strength of his forces, copies of which will be presented to you for inspection. There are according to his statements about 200 regulars posted at the Forts. They have mounted sixty large pieces of Ordnance, 24s, 32s, and 50s, and supplied with the munitions of war and all the appendages necessary to the most effective service.
The platforms are in good order. The embrasures Judiciously selected and kept open and prepared for actual hostilities. The fortification, a wall of Fort Nelson of the usual thickness and composed of earth and brick work; its form is an irregular Polygon, some of the angles of which enable the fort to play upon an approaching fleet, and some when it would be stationary for the purpose of attempting the bombardment of the lower end of Norfolk. Fort Norfolk differs but little from Fort Nelson, but could render no aid in the annoying of ships should they effect their passage by the Fort. The reverse defence of the Forts is subject to the same objection as that of Powhatan. They have neither platform, embrasure, or guns, and the glacis of the parapet is so managed as to afford but little aid to soldiers using small arms. They are without Bastions on the angle saillant or sally angle, and hence the reverse defence would be far from stout. Whilst upon this subject I will anticipate some little in point of time the result of my journey as it is connected par ticularly with this branch of the subject. Norfolk, it is known, lies upon the South of Elizabeth River nine miles from its confluence with the roads. Near this is Craney Island which all accord in saying is the most eligible spot for a fort. This Island runs a considerable distance into the river; it then has a flat and gradually descending beach to the Channel where it is suddenly abrupt. The Fort could therefore with safety be erected two or three hundred yards in the rear upon a sure foundation received from the particular situation of the channel, would be within
400 yards of the most distant part where it would be possible for a vessel of any burthen to navigate, and hence would be within point blank range of the guns of the Fort. It is attended with this auxilliary circumstance that from the circuitous course of the current, the ship would be obliged to approach the fort with its prow, and of consequence would be exposed to the fire of the fort without the possibility of retaliation except in the moment when it was passing. Commodore Decatur, who sounded the river in this place under the direction of the government, communicated to me the substance of the above statement, accompanied, I think, with a declaration that with one or two vessels (tho' I think he said his own), supported by a well ordered fort, he should be enabled to arrest a fleet of any size. A floating battery, it seems agreed on all bands, would contribute most essentially to the defence of Norfolk, and could be made with very small expense, and I therefore promised it if it met with your approbation.
Colo. Rob't Taylor, whose intelligence is respected wherever he is known, stated to me that he had a conversation some years past with Sir Thomas Hardy, who accompanied Parker and Nelson in their attack upon Copenhagen, in which he spoke lightly of the Forte, but stated that floating batteries would be a most effectual defence, and went on to state that in the affair of Copenhagen that species of defence was resorted to with great success. On the 28th, I had an interview with all the militia officers in and about Norfolk, for the purpose of collecting all the information in their possession which might in any degree subserve the object of my visit. The general impression seemed to be that they had nothing to fear by an attack from the shipping, but that their great danger arose from the facility of landing troops and taking Norfolk in reverse. Of this opinion was Colo. Taylor, who seemed to think that unless a respectable force was permanently stationed in Norfolk, that 500 men would be able to land at Lambert's point about 4 miles below the town, and by a rapid movement sack the town.
They associate with an invasion a probable insurrection of their slaves, who take a deep interest in a rupture between England and this Country. Colo. Taylor stated an important fact upon this subject. During the Douglass war, when an invasion was anticipated, Sir Thomas Hardy received a communication from the slaves that they were ready to unite with the British so soon as they hoisted their war flag, and Sir T. H. had the frankness to show the Colo, a letter he had written his master, disclosing that fact. Sir T. spoke of such a combination with horror and indignation.
From the opinion thus expressed by Colo. Taylor, I was induced to explore the country about Norfolk as far as six miles. It appeared to me that from the peculiar character of the country, that a thousand, or 1,500 men, would be able to protect Norfolk from a much superior force.
There are Creeks making out from the river, both above and below Norfolk which from the small elevation of the whole of that country above the level of the Sea form considerable estuaries, the heads of which approximate each other so closely that the land lying between might, by redoubts and abbatis thrown up on the spur of the occasion, be de fended by a small force, and different stands of this kind might be effected so as to have at least three successive points of defence, but I think with Colo. Taylor, that least 1,000 men should be stationed in Norfolk in the event of actual hostilities, so as to unite with the citizens of Norfolk in their defence. It seems to be believed that a debarkation of troops could be effected only at the pleasure house, The Quarantine House, or at Lambert's Point Landing. At either of the former places would produce a circuity, and of course a march favorable to the de fence of Norfolk. Lambert's Point, about four miles below Norfolk, is the spot where it is believed a debarkation, if attempted at all, will be effected. Hut should that be the case, the defence of the place, as stated above, is very practicable unless the force were great indeed with which it was assailed.
In this interview with the officers, I regretted to hear great complaints concerning their guns, and declarations that their men were without confidence in them.
Digressing from that subject for a moment, I will state that on the 30th of April, by request I visited the Dismal Swamp Canal and witnessed the consummation of 20 years' labor in the completion of that extensive and public spirited undertaking, and in company with the President, Directors, and a host of the respectable citizens of Norfolk, we witnessed the Junction of the waters of the Sound and of the Chesapeake, and passed from the one to the other in a boat containing 10,000 shingles, amidst the shouts and applauses of the spectators.
On the first of May I reviewed the Regiment of the Borough of Norfolk, and a Battalion of the County which mustered in Portsmouth. With the Norfolk Regiment I was extremely well pleased. It is under the direction of Officers who have strong claims to the gratitude of their country, amongst whom I wish particularly to mention Colo. Sharp and Major Morris; the urbanity of whose manners is surpassed by nothing except by their military ardor and their devotion to the honor and welfare of their country.
From the universality of complaint concerning the unfitness of the arms, and from the vast importance of having the Militia well armed in Norfolk and its vicinity, I not only had a review of parade but one also of inspection, and examined the arms with as much attention as my time would permit. The general external appearance was well enough ; indeed the men seemed to have taken great pains in cleaning and pre serving them. But it was said, and I discovered but too many examples of the kind, that there were flaws apparent upon a close inspection indicative of brittle and unmalleable iron. The locks are in many cases out of order. These defects in the arms of our own factory and not in the French arms which are as universally approved of, as the others are condemned. It is desirable that the superintendent of the armory should be instructed to change the cock, which in comparrison with the French model is greatly inferior. Seeing the existing defects, and believing that a confidence on the part of the men in their arms was indispensable to success, I directed Major Morris to put them to proof, and with an intelligent artificer to examine the locks, and with this further instruction that those which were not radically worthless, he might employ some mechanic in the place to repair. Those which were so, he might return to this place with a view to procure such as the exigency of the times require shall be in the hands of the Citizens whose situation is an exposed one.
The Battalion in Portsmouth seemed to have done its duty in their attention to their guns, but the same objections are made to their condition as in Norfolk, and the same distinction taken between those made in our own manufactory and the French arms, but as no official report of the condition was made, and no person known to me whose skill and integrity were such as to Justify my appointing them to prove the guns, I preferred waiting till such return was made, which I requested Colo. Manneon to have done immediately. The Council having advised that 500 lbs. of powder should be procured by Col. Sharp, and that lead also might be procured by him, at his request I agreed that he might have the cartridges made in Norfolk.
The public dinner on the first, and what occurred thereat, are of public Notoriety, and need no comment. I can only add Unit the enthusiasm displayed by all is beyond praise.
In the meeting of officers it was unanimously advised that Telegraphic communications should be established, to commence at Cape Henry and continue to Norfolk.
After being detained a day by rain, on the 3rd of May, being Sunday, I embarked on board the United States Revenue Cutter (Capt. Ham), for which I was indebted to Colo. Larkin Smith, the collector at Norfolk (whose unremitted civilities and Friendship have laid me under perpetual obligations), and in company with several Gentlemen and some Ladies sailed through the roads, the bay, and passing the Capes into the Ocean. I was enabled by this course to discover the most elevated and best adapted sites for the Telegraph towers. The result of my own observations, and in these I had the sanction of Colo. Sharp and others, was that Cape Henry would be of consequence the first point, and the Light House would answer the purpose of a Telegraph Tower. From thence to Crump hills, 9 miles; from thence to Willoughby's point, 7 miles; from thence to Old Point Comfort Light House, 7 miles; from thence to Craney Island, 6 miles; and from thence to Norfolk, 5 miles. Four Towers only would be necessary, the price of which Commodore Decatur stated would be trilling to complete the plan contemplated. Nothing is more simple than the modern art of Telegraphic communication by balls or flags in the day and by false fires in the night, and the communication of intelligence is rapid as sound or vision.
I was furnished by the Commodore with a view of the plan at this time in use by the Navy of the U. S., a transcript of which will be furnished at any time by him if it should be necessary. I returned to Nor folk on Monday, the 4th of May, where I received a letter from the Secretary of War responsive to two written by myself to him shortly before 1 left this place, which fell far short of what I had expected. My letters are of record ; the one from the Secretary is present for the perusal of the Council of State. I had requested to be advised of the proportion of National defence which will be extended to this State, and whether we should be indemnified for any advances of the munitions of war which we had and were still making. His reply is that orders have been given for a supply of ammunition, and further suggests the necessity of selecting two or three Artillery Companies in the vicinity of Norfolk to co-operate with the Commandant of the port in the event of necessity. In consequence thereof, I addressed letters to ('apt. Ott and Capt. Emmer- son, commanding two Companies of Artillery — the one in Norfolk, the other in Portsmouth, of which letters I present copies to the Council, as also the copy of a letter to Col. Freeman, with his reply.
Whilst in Norfolk I suggested to several Gentlemen there the necessity, which I had previously presented to the Council, of a military chart of the Eastern Frontier of this State, and it has been to me a subject of surprize that the Federal Government bad omitted so important an ingredient in the means of defence, not only in relation to Virginia alone, but to the widely extended coasts of the United States. In consequence of this communication, Col. William Tatham, an old revolutionary soldier, was introduced to me under flattering recommendations. With him I had frequent interviews, in which I discovered that he had devoted much time to the acquisition of knowledge of the Topography, Hydrography, and the Technography of the Country about Norfolk, and he presented me with various specimens of his dexterity in all these different branches.
His very extensive knowledge upon these subjects is mingled with an enthusiasm that gives a most romantic appearance to some of his pro jects, but which I do not chose harshly to condemn, because they seem to me to lie beyond the sphere of my comprehension. I requested him to embody his ideas upon these subjects for the purpose of being presented to you for your information, and finally your advice. These have been rec'ed since my arrival here, and are now presented to the Council.
On Friday, the 5th, I left Norfolk and travelled the road on the South  side of the River through a country for miles that presented nothing , upon which the eye could for a moment regale itself. It seems to have been laid by the Creator under an awful interdict, and to a sterility by nature which no art or industry can compensate is superadded a redundancy of water, which, from the relative height of the Country with the ocean, it seems impossible to drain. Whether it is doomed forever, with a very few exceptions, to be a jungle for wild beasts or to yield to the enterprising and adventurous spirit of industry, time alone will decide. It is far beyond the reach of the present race, with whom, were I to judge from appearances, industry and exertion are paralyzed, and who, shrinking from an undertaking so arduous as the reclamation of this country, resort to the waters as an element more propitious for the supplies of life.
Among the lower classes, who live almost upon the water, you see a wretched and squalid cadaverous race that seem to be but the moving spectres of departed men. Among the higher orders, or better livers, with small shades of difference, indeed, you find a character common to Virginians. I discover nothing of import in the country through which I have travelled till my arrival in Petersburg. The military ardor which I had discovered in other parts of the lower Country seemed not to have moved upon the face of this. But I saw no public collections, which may, perhaps, account for the difference, tho' on all occasions 1 made it my business to enquire. In Petersburg the Battalion paraded on the 9th of May. I reviewed it. The volunteer Companies met my approbation. The whole seemed to have caught the holy fire, the diffusion of which is so interesting with us. I by request partook of a dinner given by the military, where, as in Norfolk, I indulged in an expression of my feelings and in an effort to rouse their pride, their patriotism and courage. They were good enough to approve of my sentiments by long, reiterated applause. I hale it as a favorable presage, and augur well of their con duct in the event of an appeal to arms.
On Sunday, the 10th, I returned to this place.
Soundings of James River.
Newport news we have a depth of water of 7 fathoms and a channel 1 mile wide, thence to Day's point 15 miles above the water shoals to 3 1/2 fathoms, thence deepens until you reach the Rock Landing, a distance of 2 miles, after which you again have on 3 and 3 1/4 fathoms until you arrive at the Point of Shoals, 10 miles above Day's Point; the depth here 7 fathoms and a channel not more than 1/3 of a mild wide, every vessel drawing 15 feet water being compelled to pass within musket shot of the shore. The Channel now varies from 5 to 8 fathoms until you arrive at Goose Hill Flatts 6 miles below James Town; here at high tide there is a depth of only 16 feet, but in consequence of a soft bottom, a vessel drawing 17 may pass with a favorable wind; thence to James Town from 4 to ten fathoms, here the channel narrows to 250 yards, one side of which touches the shore to the North ; thence to John H. Couke's Estate channel varies from 3 to 6 fathoms; thence to Dancing Point 11 miles above James Town, water 4 and 5 fathoms, but here falls off to 3 and 3 1/4 ; thence until you arrive at Harrison's liar varies from 4 to 6 fathoms, where it barely measures 10 feet at high water, but a soft bottom enables a vessel drawing 17 to pass.

Fort Norfolk Documents

Before 1794, 1794, 1795, 1796, 1797, 1798, 1799, 1800, 1801, 1802, 1803, 1804, 1805, 1806, 1807, 1808, 1809, 1810, 1811, 1812, 1813, 1814, 1815, 1816, 1817, 1861, 1862, 1863, 1864, 1865

Source of Information

CALENDAR of VIRGINIA STATE PAPERS and OTHER MANUSCRIPTS, FROM JANUARY 1, 1808, TO DECEMBER 31, 1835, PRESERVED IN THE CAPITOL AT RICHMOND. ARRANGED AND EDITED, UNDER THE AUTHORITY AND DIRECTION OF H. W. FLOUENOY, SECRETARY Of THE COMMONWEALTH OF VIRGINIA, AND STATE LIBRARIAN. VOLUME X. 1892